Fashion & Scottish Textiles

I have always been impressed and proud that so many fashion houses around the world use Scottish textiles, so I did some research and decided to create a wee summary of this wonderful relationship between the world of fashion and Scottish textiles.

Fashion Houses and Scottish Fabric

Over the past 100 years, fashion designers, both Scottish and international, have integrated high-quality Scottish textiles like tartan, tweed, and cashmere into their collections to celebrate Scottish heritage and craftsmanship. Most fashion houses have at some stage come to Scotland for inspiration and for our quality textiles. Scottish textiles I use in my designs are from Lovat of Hawick, Johnstons of Elgin, Isle Mill in Keith, Lochcarron of Scotland in Selkirk, Harris Tweed, Timorous Beasties in Glasgow and Bute Fabrics on the Isle of Bute.

Designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Burberry, Yves Saint Laurent, Channel, Paul Smith and Alexander McQueen have famously championed Scottish fabrics. 

Coco Chanel

In 1912, Scotsman William Linton established Linton Mill in the Caldewgate area of Carlisle, situated south of the Scottish border and near the Lake District. William Linton developed a close friendship with Captain Molyneux, a Parisian couturier. In the 1920s, he introduced him to a dynamic young lady named Coco Chanel, initiating a relationship that would flourish over the years. Chanel became Linton’s biggest and most prestigious customer.

Coco Chanel continued to embrace Scottish fabrics, notably the cashmere Mill Barrie Knitwear, a connection that has evolved into a modern partnership involving Scottish artisans and contributed to the recognition of Scottish textiles globally for their quality and distinctive style, such as tweed and tartan. 
Coco Chanel's romantic relationship with Hugh Grosvenor, the second Duke of Westminster, in the mid-1920s introduced her to the Scottish Highlands and the comfort of tweed. 
Chanel initially wore the Duke's tweed sports clothes, adapting them to her own style and appreciating their functionality and comfort.

Paisley Pattern

The Paisley pattern has been worn by everyone from Queen Victoria to The Beatles. It is instantly recognised across the world. And it is as iconic and fashionable today as it was when it put Paisley at the centre of the global textile trade. The beautiful Kashmir shawl originated in India in the 11th Century; the teardrop motif has been most popular and recognisable design.

The designs made their way to western Europe in the latter half of the 18th Century. The rarity of the pattern meant they became a symbol of wealth and status among upper-class women.

By 1834, over £1m pounds worth of shawls were being produced in Paisley. This is about £106m in today’s money. The shawls became even more fashionable in 1842, when the young Queen Victoria is said to have purchased 17 of them to support local women in the industry, thus encouraging the relationship between fashion & Scottish Textiles.

Paisley’s former greatness as a textile hub is still apparent, and the town boasts the highest concentration of listed buildings anywhere in Scotland apart from Edinburgh. But so too is evidence of post-industrial decline on the high street.

Hermès

Hermès collaborated with Paisley Museum in 2019 to create a collection inspired by the Paisley pattern, featuring two silk scarves and a bangle for their spring/summer 2019 collection. This partnership enhanced global recognition of Paisley pattern designs, which is part of Scotland's historic textile heritage.

Paul Smith

Paul Smith collaborates with Scottish mills and spinners near the River Ayr and Bute Fabrics on the Isle of Bute, to produce high-quality woollen textiles for his scarves, knitwear, clothing and interiors. The brand uses traditional Scottish crafts to create its iconic pieces, like ‘Signature Stripe’ scarves and cashmere sweaters, emphasizing the heritage and quality of Scottish wool. 

Paul Smith’s view is that innovation is all well and good but when it comes to craft and quality, Scotland is the place he goes to.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton uses high-quality Scottish wool in their designs; sourcing from textile makers in Scotland known for their expertise in traditional luxury fabrics like cashmere and tweed. The relationship between Louis Vuitton and Scottish textiles is based on a focus on quality, craftsmanship, and the heritage of materials such as tartan.

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent have collaborated with Scottish textiles primarily through the revolutionary work of designer Bernat Klein, who created innovative fabrics like colour-flecked mohair tweeds in the Scottish Borders. Klein’s innovative designs, inspired by the Scottish landscape, were sought after by leading fashion houses including Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, and Chanel, bringing Scottish design to the global haute couture stage in the mid-20th century.

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood had a deep and long-standing relationship with Scottish wool, particularly Scottish tweed and tartan, which she used in her designs to subvert tradition and challenge conventional fashion from the punk era through to the late 20th century. 

Fascinated with Scottish lore, Vivienne Westwood first began experimenting with the kilt the late 1970s. At their nascent punk label Seditionaries, she and Malcolm McLaren draped kilts over black bondage suits, reinterpreting “the warrior of the battle of Culloden” as a street fighting “urban guerrilla”.

Her 1987/88 Tweed collection helped revitalize the use of the fabric in high fashion. Vivienne is quoted as saying, “Here, I have taken the vocabulary of royalty and traditional British symbols – and used it to my advantage.” She collaborated with Scottish weavers to create her own tartans, cementing a "long-standing alliance" with the Scottish textile industry. 

Her work with Scottish fabric is credited with reviving its use in fashion, making it accessible to a wider audience and giving a significant boost to the Harris Tweed industry in Scotland. 


Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen incorporated Scottish tweed and tartan into his work throughout his career, drawing on his personal heritage and a deep respect for Scottish history and culture, particularly in collections like ‘Highland Rape’ and ‘The Widow of Culloden’. He used traditional materials to convey personal and cultural narratives, reflecting themes of Scottish identity, historical trauma, and a rebellious spirit, solidifying Scottish fabric as integral to his design identity.  

McQueen’s love affair with Scotland was most visual in his 1995 collection. In formal Highland wear he is standing beside Sarah Jessica Parker, both wrapped in McQueen plaid at the foot of the steps of the Met Gala in 2006.

McQueen's father was of Scottish descent, and his mother passed down a fascination with their family history to him. He felt a profound sense of pride in being able to use "family cloth" in his designs, weaving his personal and family history into his creations.

He continued to use Scottish Tweed and tartan in later collections, demonstrating its significance to his design vocabulary.

Scottish Designers

Contemporary Scottish designers like Araminta Birse-Stewart nee Campbell are at the forefront of revitalizing the industry through traditional and modern techniques, fostering a vibrant relationship between Scottish textiles and global fashion. 

Conclusion

While I find the decline of woollen production in Scotland over the last 100 years very sad, I am optimistic about the future of the industry as we continue to produce such high-quality woollen fabric. I travel around Scotland with my husband supporting, buying and championing Scottish wool from small weavers on the West of Scotland's islands to larger weavers in Keith and the Scottish Borders.

When I am lucky enough to get my hands on designer fabric, I buy as much as I can afford and include them in a lot of my designs.

We are extremely fortunate to have such fantastic quality, variety of patterns, textures and exciting colours of woollen fabric all over Scotland, you just need to hunt for it!

Lesley Pugsley (Baigali Designs)

References:

  1. https://lintontweeds.com/history-linton-tweeds/ – Linton Tweeds.
  2. https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2019/mar/15/paisley-from-paisley-enjoys-a-resurgence-with-help-from-hermes The Guardian March 2019.
  3. https://www.paulsmith.com/uk/discover/stories/signature-stripe-crafted-art Paul Smith – The Art & Craft of Our Signature Stripe.
  4. https://paisley.is/stories-from-renfrewshire/paisley-pattern/ – The Paisley Pattern changed everything.
  5. https://www.lacoquetteitalienne.com/fashion/the-tartan-trend-by-saint-laurent/ – The Tartan trend by Saint Laurent.
  6. https://www.sundaypost.com/fp/scottish-fashion-tartan/ From Mary, Queen of Scots to Alexander McQueen: Fashion historian details how Caledonian culture has shaped what the world wears.
  7. https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en-gb/westwood-world/heritage/thou-shall-kilt–the-story-of-a-scottish-symbol-turned-cult-fashion-icon/ Thou Shall Kilt: The Story Of A Scottish Symbol Turned Cult Fashion Icon.